Archive for DIY

Getting your old paint clean!

Super quick tip on getting and keeping your old paint clean

Crusty old paint can but pretty good paint inside…how can you get it out and back in without contaminating the paint?

You will need

  • A paint can opener
  • A ladies panty hose or a paint strainer bag from the home center or paint store
  • A clean bucket

Steps

  • Wipe off the top of the paint can and blow away all loose debris
  • Install the hose or strainer bag over your clean bucket
  • Pour your paint through the strainer then pull out strainer and throw out or rinse out.
  • When finished, pour unused paint back into paint can and put on lid
  • Cover the lid with a rag or paper towel before hammering in place to prevent splattering.

 More tips and tricksTip: using dirty bucket with clean paint

Spackles, Bondo and Marine Filler

Be careful, some common fillers will fail! So what is the difference?

Here are some of my favorite fillers, an one to watch out for…it will fail if used outside.

  • MH or Synko Spackle: this is a very easy to use exterior spackle…it is a bit hard to sand but it really adheres and fills all those uneven surfaces on fascias, siding and exterior trim with ease. It holds up well for years. Be sure to prime raw wood before applying spackle and then prime the spackle when dry for the most durable patches.
  • Bondo is a catalyzed polyester filler (costs about $40/gallon)  that can be mixed to dry in minutes to really move a job along. This filler is often mistakenly used on exterior wood….a big mistake as Bondo in hydrophilic…it will absorb water and expand causing the patch to delaminate and pop off your paint. It can be used on interior wood repairs but never outside.
  • 3M Marine filler is also a catalyzed filler (costs about $190/gallon) that can also be mixed to dry quickly. This product is formulated for marine environments and so is unaffected by water. I have patches that last for years with this product….every wonder why one painter bids more to do a project….this is one reason to hire the more expensive guy as he is using materials almost 5 times more expensive and understands why it is worth it.
  • Most painters buy whatever is available at the paint store; a craftsman can go cross discipline and find products that will give a better more durable result (like sourcing patch materials at a marine store!)

More on cheap materials

Preparing Galvanized Metal

Without proper preparation, paint will peel from galvanized metal!

Here are some tips and tricks to get the job done properly so paint adheres for the long term

Tools and supplies you will need:

  • Sponge; safety glasses; rubber gloves
  • A deep sink to rinse the metal
  • Five gallon bucket; 2 gallon bucket
  • Krud Kutter Clean and Etch
  • Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Primer: a zinc rich primer for the cut edges of the galvanized metal

Steps:

  1. Wipe down the metal generously with the Clean and Etch and put in 5 gallon bucket without rinsing (you want the chemical action to work on the metal for 5-10 minutes).
  2. After 5-10 minutes, rinse the metal in clean water; wiping with a clean sponge
  3. Stack metal pieces so they can thoroughly dry
  4. Spray prime the un-galvanized, cut edges of the metal
  5. Full prime the metal before installation with an acrylic primer or an oil based primer specifically designed for galvanized

More on sheet metalMore on rot prevention with sheet metal
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Painting Techniques…Dirty Bucket

Your only paint bucket is dirty….what to do!

Here are some tips and tricks to get the job done and paint back in the can when done

Tools and supplies you will need:
• A dirty bucket….or a clean one will do!
• A common plastic grocery bag
• A Throw away latex medical glove (always great to have around for messy projects)Color TrasistionsCrisp paint lines
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Fixing holes in walls

Some holes are just too big to fill with spackle…here’s how to do it

Fixing holes in your wall requires a few specialized tools


Tools and supplies you will need:
• A drywall “mud-pan”
• A 4″ and 6-12″ drywall “knives”…these are the wide metal tools with a handle for spreading the “mud”.
• A household sponge
• A squirt bottle
• Patching compound mud: this can be bought dry in a bag with several different types available that dry quickly. They are sold as 5 minute dry time on up to 45 minute dry time. If you have no time constraints then you can purchase a bucket of premixed “All Purpose” mud…just keep it covered!
• Clean your mud pan after each use or mud will dry in your pan and be very difficult to remove. Also do not put remainder fast dry mud (mixed from a bag) into the sink or toilet….it even dries under water and will clog your drains!
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Preparing your Interior Trim

Here is a quick and easy way to get your trim prepared for painting so that the surface is ready for a beautiful and long lasting paint job.

Preparing your interior trim need not create any dust


For this DIY segment you will need:
• A towel to protect the floor
• Household cleaner like Crud Kutter or 409.
• Akitchen sponge
• A squirt bottle filled with water ad a little dish washing liquid (I prefer Dawn)
• A sanding sponge or water-proof sandpaper

What is really great about this technique is that the trim is made very smooth yet de-glossed to that the new paint will adhere and flow out smoothly

• When you are applying a fine finish, you cannot have any dust present. Clients love that it keeps our work areas nice and clean 
More on DIY

 

Painting Tricks: color transition

Painting a sharp clean line between wall and trim

The technique is the same whether you want a sharp line on baseboard, crown, wainscot or really any type of trim

    • If the trim/wall junction has not yet had its open seam caulked then do it now (see previous blog on how)
    Allow to dry
    • If you have just caulked then, with your trim paint, go over the caulking and bring the paint onto the wall surface. Allow to dry. Note: if caulking is not painted over then, over time, it will collect dust that cannot be cleaned off
    • Note: if your trim is stain/clear finished then use clear caulk to fill any seams at color transition
    • Run a straight line of tape along the transition line and burnish edge

    • If trim is stain/clear finished then run a light bead of CLEAR caulk or clear varnish over the edge to bleed under any imperfect tape adhesion
    • If trim is paint finish then you can either clear caulk, clear varnish or brush a light coat of trim paint over the edge to bleed under any imperfect tape adhesion. Allow to dry
    • Now paint wall or ceiling color and be sure to overlap the transition tape edge. Pull up slowly at a sharp angle and you have professional result with a super clean, sharp edge! You are a “DYI” painter

Click here for more on crisp lines

Click here for Video on baseboard sharp lines

Painting Tricks: Crisp paint lines

Getting a crisp, clean and straight line can be easy as pie if you know the tricks of the painting trade

On an inside corner between two walls or walls and a ceiling that have an uneven texture, trying to brush along the rough surface results in a very uneven line. To get a smoother transition upon which to transition color with a clean line:

    • You will need a caulking gun, a tube of acrylic latex caulk, a small bucket of water and a small rag
    • First run a bead of acrylic latex caulking where the two planes (wall/wall or wall/ceiling) meet, dip your   finger in the water and run your wet finger over the bead of caulk; re-wet your finger as needed; use the rag to wipe excess of
    • Let the caulk dry for an hour or s
    • Paint surface and overlap inside corner a bit and allow to d
    • Now you can either free hand cut in the new color or use tape to create a sharp and straight paint li
    • If your color transition is dramatic, taping works best. If color transition is subtle the free hand cut in with a brush will be fi
    • If you use tape, you must seal the edge where the colors change by brushing the first color on so it will bleed under tape and seal it or you can run a light bead of caulk along the tape edge and, as before, run your wet finger over it. You do not need much caulk….just enough to seal the edge of the tape
    • Frog Tape by Shurtape is widely available and I highly recommend it. This specialty tape is formulated for sharp clean paint lines
    • On a 90 degree outside corner, you can use the same technique.
    • This is an especially good idea when color transition is dramatic and you want the line razor sharp.

• After just a few minutes, brush the new color along the tape and gently pull up the tape at an angle and “voila”, you are an expert “I did it myself! “DYI” painter

Get sharp lines between walls and baseboards

Painting Tips from The Home Pro Show

Paint tools and tricks for a homeowner to get a professional looking paint job with:

  • How to prepare your roller by getting loose hairs out easily so they do not end up in your paint on the wall
  • A scraper tool to quickly and efficiently remove peeling paint …..a carbide scraper is well worth the $20 investment
  • A 5 in 1 tool is the overall general tool that every painter keeps in his pocket….it is a scraper, putty knife and a great tool to open up cracks before filling,
  • And John displays a tool used by professionals to protect against lead contamination ….a HEPA vacuum sanding system by Festool.

Best paint for Bathrooms

Mildew Proof Paint for baths

Mildew Proof Paint for baths

In the past oil semi-gloss was used in baths/kitchens and laundries but with the emphasis on reducing chemicals VOC’s harmful to the ozone layer, many paints have become more prone to streaking as soaps and other surfactants used in bathing are deposited on painted surfaces and mar the surface with streaking.

I have found a couple that perform as well or better than old oil enamel:
Zinsser Perma-White paint is carried by many paint stores and can be tinted to most medium pastel colors. It is fantastic at keeping mildew at bay and not streaking….even in very steamy rooms. I have it in two of my own bathrooms; one a medium yellow and the other a medium turquoise…both were painted well over 5 years ago and are easily cleaned and have no signs of any mildew. Very low sheen eggshell

Comes in Deep Colors!

Comes in Deep Colors!

Benjamin Moore Spa and Bath is another very nice paint I have used with some clients who are looking for deeper tones and an almost matte finish….a very nice look in a bath.