Archive for December 2015

How to Paint Interior Stucco Walls?

Stucco is a great component for covering the interior walls. While stucco is widely used for the exterior siding in modern times, its unparallel texture and quality make it a stunning finish for interior walls as well. It is highly durable and can give your interior walls a high quality finish. Despite its durability, even a well built stucco walls canhow to paint interior stucco walls begin to look dingy and exhausted over time.

The best way to renovate your old interior stucco walls is to apply a fresh coat of paint on it.

Best Paint Types for Stucco:

When it comes to paint stucco walls, it is quite important to choose the right paint type. For the best result, you can use acrylic-latex based paint or a water-based paint with acrylic binders since it adheres to both uneven and rougher surfaces. You can find many different acrylic latex paints in a variety of colors as well as a low or no VOC interior formulations. According to the paint experts, the best way to choose paint for stucco walls is to choose a somewhat
shiny finish, preferably a semi-gloss. However, the surface of the stucco walls looks the best when painted in more matte paint such as flat or eggshell. If you are concerned about how to clean the stucco walls, you can select an eggshell finish since it is easily washable.

Best Painting Tools for Stucco Walls:

You should choose a synthetic paint brush or a thick roller to paint your stucco walls. A wide nylon or polyester paint brush is required to handle the cuts around edges easily since it holds plenty of paint and efficiently pushes the paint into the stucco’s texture. In order to get an even application of paint, use a thicker roller cover, with about 1 inch nap. The roller pushes the paint into the rough surfaces for even coverage

Interior Stucco Wall Painting Tips:

Clean the surfaces with a mild detergent and water. You also need to repair any gaps by cleaning out any lose bits. Begin the paint job at least 1 day after cleaning and at least 7 days after patching to give the stucco walls enough time to cure. The ideal interior temperature for painting the stucco walls is between 50 and 90 degrees F. The room should be well ventilated as well.

Latest Exterior and Interior Paint Colors Ideas

When it comes to paint your walls with beautiful colors – the options are literally endless. With so many color options, it’s easily possible that you stick to one small section of color. In order to brighten up your thoughts, you exterior and interior paint colors ideassurely need the latest wall paint ideas for your space.

When it comes to choose the latest color trends, there’s a world of paint colors out there that can broaden your horizons. No matter if you need wall paint color ideas, or need to apply the latest colors on a certain room, you can easily get inspiration from the following paint color ideas.

Vibrant Pink:

The latest trend is to punch up a bathroom with vibrant, hot pink. Vibrant pinks are the best way to energize your bathroom. Some also use an intense version of favorite pink shade to contrast with the black and white tile of the bathroom. You can also add a bright patch to achieve a similar look.

Classic Color Combination:

People are also fond of using classic color combination palettes that include earthy tones and bold blues. These types of hues look great when applied on your exterior wall. You can also use grays to improve the crisp accent of colors. Some colonial colors are also in the market. For example, colors like white, cream, gray and neutrals can look great on your exterior walls. You can also give your house a bold saturated appearance by applying black, brown, red, and blue on the walls. Classic and colonial colors have been around the market for years and will surely rule the years to come.

Bright and Serene Shades:

Bright and serene shades are other important shades, popularly used by people at their interior house painting project. They are eye-propping and soothing and the watery hue provides the ideal background for your kid’s study area. You can even use palettes like brown and creams to achieve a spirit of authenticity, muted, and natural accent colors. You can also some craftsmanship to your house palettes by including muted, earthy tones like sage, khaki greens, ocher, and soil browns.

Copper Blush:

Copper Blush was the key color for 2015. This type of color truly reflects the movement as a beautifully heart-warming shade with exact amount of depth that provides you with an easy to live environment but with a brilliant touch of elegance. You can also use some coordinating colors to help create a stylish room which is perfect for you.

5 Easy Steps To Paint the Front Door

Front doors are the most important part of your home and they require a certain amount of maintenance, such as regular cleaning, weatherproofing and the occasional and well-deserved spruce up. A fresh coat of paint is an ideal opportunity to choose a new and refreshing color for your home’s front door.steps to paint the front door

Choose a New Paint Color:

It is important to choose a new paint color for your front door. For your exterior front door, you should not use the regular enamel paint that we generally use for the interior painting. The best paint for exterior front doors is exterior acrylic paint since it is flexible and contains high quality materials to protect your door from harsh conditions. While choosing a new color for your front door, you should consider the colors in your home as well as its surroundings.

Remove all Hardware from the Door:

If you want to achieve a professional-looking finish, you can take time to remove the locks, knobs and other hardware from the door before painting. You can easily tape them off and paint around them. However, if you are thinking of a new hardware for your front door, this is the right time for that. Also, do the necessary prep work required for your front door. For example, you can clean the door by using a palm sander to roughen the flat surfaces of existing paint.

Apply a Good Primer:

You may want to get the primer tinted by depending on the final color. By doing this, you will actually need fewer coats of paint. When theprimer will dry, you will need to run the sandpaper lightly over the surface in order to level out the potential irregularities in the primed finish. You can even use a rag to clean off the sanding dust.

Paint All Edges and details:

It is also important to brush the inset or trim details manually with a paintbrush so that you can lay an even base coat. It will be better if you use the brush to feather out the edges of the paint so that there are no drips.

Paint the Flat Surfaces:

Use a roller with a low-nap texture or a high-density foam roller to apply a smooth and consistent paint application across all of the flat surfaces. Don’t forget to include the edges of the door. Low-nap foam roller is ideal since they leave minimal stippling on the surface.

Painting Rusty Iron Fences and Gates

How to prepare and paint metal fences and gates

Paint Metal Garage Doors and Iron Fences

As you can see in the picture to the right…this fence has seen better days! The underlying metal is raw steel whose main component is iron. Once the raw metal is exposed, it immediately starts to react and turns to iron oxide rust, which in time will eat through the surface creating pits and holes If you are considering a fence like this , be sure to request a heavy galvanizing treatment before painting….this has to be done in a shop that specializes in galvanizing. Galvanizing is a process of applying zinc to the steel….you will get many more years out of your metal if it is galvanized.

How to treat red rusted iron fences and gates

The key here is to remove all loose/flaky rust by wire brush/wire wheel on a grinder  and/or a abrasive grinding wheel. And do not forget to clean and degloss the remaining sound coating. To get good adhesion of topcoats, the surfaces must be chalk free and deglossed.

If your project is a gate that is removable, the absolute best system is to remove the gate, take to a sandblaster for blast cleaning to bright metal and then have it either powdercoated if you live in a dry area or have a marine primer/finish shop applied.

Prep tools needed:

  • Grinder and abrasive wheel/wire wheel
  • Safety glasses and gloves plus earplugs.
  • Sandpaper, sanding block, 3M abrasive pad.

Paint/primer materials

  • For a bulletproof job the next step is to pre-prime all rust with a very thin penetrating two part epoxy primer that will bind the surfaces at a molecular level; follow this with a mastic (very thick) two part epoxy to create a thick barrier between the metal and the elements; follow this with a two part polyurethane topcoat. This system is the most durable and also the most time consuming.
  • More commonly, folks choose to wire brush/abrade to a tightly adhering rust surfaces; then apply a rust converter primer such as Rust Destroyer…a product that contains Phosphoric acid to transform the rust as well as provide a thick barrier coat. This product will take a few days to dry as it is not catalyzed. Follow with one or two topcoats of a true oil enamel (thinned with paint thinner). Look for a product that says “silicone alkyd”
  • As best you can, keep irrigation water from hitting the fence and keep dirt from burying the base of the fence…these are usually the culprits that cause the most damage to iron fences

Tools for priming and painting?

  • Because there is usually a lot of fence, the best way to apply your primer and paint is by using what we call a 7″ small diameter “weenie” roller and a two gallon bucket with a metal washboard grid.  Your local paint store will know what to give you if you ask for the above. This roller system allows you to get at all the surfaces from one side of the fence and critically the small diameter roller will allow you to load primer and paint on the underside of the fence which usually is hard to reach and has a “U” shaped channel that must be fully coated….as this is where a lot of rust starts

Rusty metal garage door?

How to Install Crown Trim

Be prepared….Installing Crown molding is not easy!

It is on an order of magnitude, more complicated than installing a new baseboard. Try installing baseboard first, it is good for measuring simple angles and perfecting carpentry skills. To install baseboard, you need a simple crown molding ideasmitre saw as you only need to half the angle of the corner and be sure your length is correct to get a good fit; but… my old woodshop teacher Mr. Dickson used to say, “measure it twice….cut it once”.

The reason finely installed crown trim is more difficult is that you are dealing with two angles on the cut. Wall/ceiling and wall/wall junctions are never quite exactly 90 degrees and if cuts are off 1/2 degree on a 6″ molding, you will not believe how big the resulting gaps can get! But properly installed, a crown will add a visual interest and value to your room.

Which Type of Crown Molding to Use:

If you are going to paint your new crown, you have basically two choices, real wood and a composite product with the generic term MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard).

  • MDF is much less expensive and comes pre-primed and is easy to work with BUT….it should NOT be used in wet/high humidity areas as it can swell and warp….so not good for bathrooms (especially for baseboards.
  • Real wood comes in various types. You want to stay away from “finger joined” types where short sections of wood are sectioned together to create a longer piece  up to 16′. The problem with finger joined wood is that over time the different sections expand and contract at different rates causing the joints to open up.
  • Solid one piece wood is the top of the heap….depending on wood type, you have the choice of painting it or, if the grain is particularly beautiful, you can stain and clear finish it.
  • I use pre-primed wood in baths and MDF throughout the rest of the house, unless of course, the molding is to be stained. I did some mahogany crown once that cost $8 a foot!

Cutting the Corners of the Molding:

  • The most difficult part of installing crown molding is cutting the corners to fit properly.
  • If you have a very long wall you have to join two long runs together in a sharp angled cut called a scarf joint to help minimize the topography of the joint when finished.
  • Corners must be cut with a compound miter saw. Compound because it is adjustable on two axis’/ angles (wall/ceiling and wall/wall). The key is to get proper measurements of the actual angles….you will often find that the angle is between 89-91 degrees. It does not seem like much but with a 6″ molding…a gap of up to 1/2 inch can result from improper measurement and adjustment of saw for cutting.
  • At your local wood working shop like Rockeler, they will provide you with a book and protractors that will explain the required measures and geometry.

Go for Local Woodworking Store:

When it comes to install crown molding, it is really important to fit the proportions of your room and existing trim that will remain. Local suppliers that specialize in architectural millwork can provide you with various samples from which you can choose. In some cases, the local suppliers are more like to suggest moldings that are authentic to your home’s period and regional style. Important to get a good length to see how it looks in proportion to room size and ceiling height before buying all your materials. Proportion is everything!

Installation Strategies:

To insure a good solid installation, I do not trust that all my fasteners will hit wood framing  and so I install a 1×3 pine strip around the perimeter of the room a few inches below the ceiling attached to the wall and fastened into the underlying studs….with this in place I can attach the crown without having to carefully measure to insure I am hitting a stud every time with the nail. An air compressor and finish nail gun will greatly speed up installation. You can rent these at the local home store. Have small, flat blade pry bars or stiff putty knives to adjust the trim as you fasten to shift the molding around imperfect “wavy” walls and ceilings. When caulking the inevitable gaps and seams, use a top line elastomeric caulk and have a bucket of water and a wet rag to keep you finger clean and wet as you smooth the caulk. To fill the nail holes, I recommend 3M Patch and Prime as it does not shrink; but do not forget to sand smooth before finishing. Another trick is to pre paint the molding before installing. Let me know if you have any questions…I would be happy to help you.

More on painting your trim

More on Crown       Getting a crisp paint line

How to Paint Rusty Metal Garage Doors

Painting Metal Garage Doors:

I get this question every week…”Can I paint my metal garage door?” The answer is yes….but!

    • Most metal garage doors come with a very hard Kynar finish over steel that has been treated with zinc galvanizing.
    • If the door shows no sign of oxides then all it takes is a cleaning followed by a bonding primer like XIM UMA  and then a finish coat of top quality acrylic house paint (I prefer a semi-gloss for clean-ability).
Zinc Oxide

Zinc Oxide

  • If the door has oxides then , we need to add some steps.
  • Because the door has been treated with zinc, the first oxides to show are a dull gray zinc oxide….if this is allowed to continue, the zinc will be depleted and you will get down to the underlying steel and you will see the more problematic red oxide.
  • They key is the lightly sand to remove excessive oxides and prime areas where the zinc oxides showed themselves with a cold galvanize zinc primer to replenish the protection of the galvanized surface.
  • Where red rust has appeared, I recommend a phosphoric acid treatment primer that will convert the red rust to a less reactive compound.

    Red Rust/Iron Oxide

    Red Rust/Iron Oxide

  • Now the whole door can be primed with the bonding primer and finished with acrylic house paint…properly maintained, a metal door can last a very long time.

 Rusty fence or gate? more